Roof Rats in the Attic: Signs & Fix (Exclusion That Actually Works)
- Feb 5
- 5 min read
If you’re hearing scratching overhead at night, finding droppings near the garage, or noticing a “musty” attic smell… there’s a good chance you’re dealing with roof rats in the attic.
Here’s the good news: you don’t need to “live with it,” and you don’t need to gamble on random poison. The fastest long-term fix is exclusion (rodent-proofing): identify how they’re getting in, seal it correctly, then remove the active rats.
Quick-Answer Box
How do I know I have rats?
Noises at night + droppings + gnaw marks + oily rub marks along beams/edges are common signs of roof rats in the attic. Local public health guidance lists droppings, gnawing, nests, and sounds in the attic as key indicators.
What’s the 1 fix for roof rats in the attic?
Seal entry points (exclusion) first. LA County recommends closing openings more than 1/4 inch to keep rodents out.
Is your bait safe for pets?
If bait is needed, it must be used correctly and legally. California has tightened restrictions on certain rodenticides due to wildlife impacts, and allowed uses are specific. That’s why we prioritize exclusion and targeted control.
Is it dangerous to clean attic droppings?
It can be. CDC warns hantavirus can be severe, and recommends wet cleaning (spray disinfectant/bleach solution—don’t dry sweep).
What should I do next?
Schedule a free inspection and get a clear exclusion plan. Call (888) 683-3592 or book online with free inspection booking.
Why roof rats love attics (and why the problem escalates fast)
Roof rats are climbers. They use trees, fences, utility lines, and vines as “highways,” then slip into roofline gaps, vents, and eaves.
UC IPM specifically notes that overhanging tree limbs within ~6 feet of the roof should be removed to reduce roof access to attics.
Once you have roof rats in the attic, the risk isn’t just noise. It’s contamination, insulation damage, and ongoing entry/exit pathways that keep the cycle going.
Signs of roof rats in the attic (quick checklist)
Look for a pattern—one sign alone isn’t always enough, but 2–3 signs together is a strong signal:
1) Night noises (scratching, scurrying, thumping)
Rats are typically most active after dark.
2) Droppings (often in clusters)
You’ll commonly find droppings near stored items, along rafters, or near attic access points.
3) Greasy rub marks
Dark smudges along beams, pipes, or tight travel edges.
4) Gnawing damage
Chewed plastic, cardboard, even wiring jackets and insulation.
5) Nesting material
Shredded paper, insulation disturbance, or hidden piles in quiet corners.
Public health and vector control resources commonly list droppings, gnaw marks, nests, rub marks, and sounds as classic evidence.
Don’t skip this: health & safety (hantavirus + cleanup)
If you suspect roof rats in the attic, treat droppings and nesting debris seriously.
CDC states hantavirus pulmonary syndrome can be deadly, and 38% of people who develop respiratory symptoms may die.
Safe cleanup matters. CDC’s guidance is wet-cleaning: wear gloves, spray droppings/urine with disinfectant (or bleach solution) until very wet, let it soak, then wipe up—don’t dry sweep or vacuum.
(And if the attic is heavily contaminated: it’s usually smarter to let a trained team handle it.)
The fix that lasts: Exclusion (rodent-proofing) + removal
Here’s the simple truth: traps and bait can reduce rats, but exclusion stops new rats from replacing them.
LA County’s prevention guidance emphasizes sealing entry points—specifically closing openings larger than 1/4 inch.
Step 1) Find the entry points (roofline first)
Common entry zones for roof rats in the attic include:
broken or loose vent screens
gaps at eaves/soffits
roof-to-wall junctions
pipe penetrations
garage roof transitions
Step 2) Seal correctly (materials matter)
A proper exclusion uses durable materials (not foam alone), such as:
metal flashing
hardware cloth
professional-grade sealants (in the right places)
Step 3) Remove the active rats (targeted control)
Depending on the situation, removal may include:
trapping strategy (often preferred for fast confirmation)
secured bait stations where appropriate
follow-up checks to confirm the population is gone
Step 4) Prevent re-entry (habitat modification)
This is where homeowners win big:
trim branches away from the roof (UC IPM recommends ~6 feet)
thin dense vegetation near structures
secure trash and pet food
reduce clutter that becomes harborage
“Is bait safe for pets?” (real answer, not a slogan)
Two important points:
The safest long-term approach is exclusion first.
If bait is used, it must be secured, labeled, and legal for the use case.
California’s Department of Pesticide Regulation (DPR) has restricted many uses of second-generation anticoagulant rodenticides (SGARs) due to wildlife impacts, and “allowed uses” are specific.
That’s why our approach prioritizes: seal → remove → monitor, and only then considers bait where it’s appropriate and compliant.
If you prefer lower-impact options, see eco-friendly pest control options.
Roof rats in the attic → insulation damage → repair needs
Here’s the relationship chain homeowners often miss:
Roof rats in the attic → torn/contaminated insulation → moisture issues/odors → repair and cleanup costs
And in some homes, it continues into structural concerns:
Roof rat activity → attic insulation disturbance → pathways for other pests → wood/trim vulnerabilities
If you’re seeing damage, Termike can handle the full loop: damaged wood repair service.
Why You Can Trust Termike (credentials + methodology)
When it comes to roof rats in the attic, you want a team that’s structured—not guessy.
Why you can trust Termike:
Branch 2 (Pest) Lic PR 6821 | Branch 3 (Termite) Lic FR 7742
NPMA member
25 years protecting Orange County, Glendale & Burbank
Tools/methods may include FLIR thermal imaging, UV tracking dust, and a sealed entry-point audit
Want the full picture of services? See our services and general pest control.
What our roof-rat inspection looks like (numbered steps)
Here’s how we typically approach roof rats in the attic (so you know exactly what you’re paying for):
Evidence check (droppings, rub marks, gnawing, nesting)
Exterior entry-point audit (roofline, vents, eaves, pipe penetrations)
Attic assessment (runways, insulation disturbance, nesting zones)
Optional tools when needed: FLIR thermal scanning / UV tracking dust
Exclusion plan (materials + exact seal points + priority order)
Removal plan (trapping/stations based on layout and pressure)
Cleanup guidance (CDC-aligned wet-cleaning steps)
Follow-up verification (confirm no activity + re-check seals)
If you’re in Burbank / Glendale (and nearby)
Rodent pressure spikes in different seasons, especially when temperatures shift and food sources change.
If you want location-specific reading, these may help:
And to confirm coverage quickly: areas we serve.
(fastest way to stop the cycle)
If you suspect roof rats in the attic, don’t wait for it to get louder (or messier).
Book online: free inspection booking
Or call now: (888) 683-3592
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For real customer feedback, see verified Yelp reviews.
FAQ
"Q: How do I know I have roof rats in the attic?"
"A: Common signs include nighttime scratching, droppings in clusters, gnaw marks, rub marks, and disturbed insulation. Vector control guidance lists droppings, gnawing, nests, rub marks, and sounds as key indicators."
"Q: What’s the best fix for roof rats in the attic?"
"A: Exclusion (rodent-proofing) is the long-term fix. LA County recommends sealing openings larger than 1/4 inch to prevent entry, then removing the active rats."
"Q: Is it safe to clean rat droppings in the attic myself?"
"A: Use CDC wet-cleaning guidance: wear gloves, spray droppings/urine with disinfectant or bleach solution until wet, let it soak, then wipe up—avoid dry sweeping or vacuuming."
"Q: Is your bait safe for pets?"
"A: We prioritize exclusion first. If bait is needed, it must be secured and used in compliance with California DPR rules—many SGAR uses are restricted and allowed uses are specific."
"Q: Should I trim trees near my roof?"
"A: Yes. UC IPM notes that overhanging branches within about 6 feet of the roof should be removed to reduce roof access and attic entry."